Pattern Hack alert: Sandra from @sandra.mkh and her #Norma blouse

Creating and sharing unique, blog-worthy, Instagram-ready garments to inspire others – the sew & blog combo is totally in. And since the number of Sewist(a) bloggers only continues to grow, Fibre Mood regularly features a Sewist(a) with unique pattern hacks they've come up with for one of our Fibre Mood patterns. This month, you get to meet Sandra from @sandra.mkh and her #Norma pattern hack.

Hi there! My name is Sandra Maciak. I'm 39 and work as a costumer at a museum in Paris. I've worked in the world of haute couture and the performing arts. I started sewing when I was around 13 or 14 and bought my first sewing machine with money from mini covers I’d sewn to decorate tissue boxes and sold at markets. That’s almost a lifetime ago now! Three years later I headed to Paris for my studies and have been there ever since. Now, I'm married and the mum of a newly formed family with five kids.

I make garments from A to Z for my work. I adore every step, draping, pattern drawing, the creation, and finish. I love trying out and combining different techniques, e.g. a slightly less structured style, trouser suits, ready-to-wear, fabric dying, embroidery, knitting, etc.

I also sew for my family: trousers, jackets, even wedding dresses! I share my creations on Instagram, which you can find @sandra.mkh.

I'm always busy! Taking kids to and from school, the commute, shopping, meetings, you name it! I like clothes that work with trainers and heels, clothes I feel comfy in but that are still elegant. Being able to switch up my clothes every day is important too. It all depends on my mood. Coffee, tea, or hot chocolate – but never the same breakfast.

Since there are seven of us living together in a small house, I prefer not to have too many clothes. I'm also trying to be more conscious about my consumption. I love the clothes I have and don’t feel like I need that many. I would rather have a great garment that fits well and is made in a gorgeous fabric than ten churned out on an assembly line under who knows what kind of conditions...

In short, my #NormaHack had to be chic and comfortable. I was really pleased with the basic cut of the pattern, close-fitting with balloon sleeves. The V-neck also really did the trick.

How did I go about my Norma pattern hack?

• I wanted to bring out the V of the neckline even more. To do that, I added flounces with smocked edges; they draw attention and lengthen my silhouette.
• I got rid of the button placket at the front, lengthened the sleeves by 4 cm and omitted the sleeve trim.
• I marked the pattern pieces with where I wanted to add the flounces, on the front and back.
• Next, I re-traced those lines on the wrong side of both pattern pieces, first with tailor's chalk, followed by marking thread on the front piece.
• I joined the front and back pieces to the shoulders and finished the seams of the neckline.
• I had already gotten my two flounce pieces ready: 10 cm (finished) at the shoulders, 7 cm (finished) at the ends (i.e., 13 cm and 10 cm of seam allowance included, respectively).
• I finished the seams of the flounces with a rolled hem. For the smocked bit, I sewed the flounce with my overlocker, folding 2 cm over and pressing, running my gathering threads through the machine to shirr the fabric.
• I then attached the flounces to the front. To do that, I followed my marking thread, first on my mannequin, then laid flat on the table. It's important to spend plenty of time on this, since the flounces and smocking attract a lot of attention.
• I attached the flounces and stitched them to the smocking.
• Afterwards, I sewed the sides and the sleeves.
• To finish the sleeves, I used the same technique I used on the flounces; I sewed them to a ready-made bracelet, 2 cm wide.
• I then inserted the sleeves and sewed the hem of the front and back pieces.

I really adore this blouse; it can be paired with trainers for a more casual look or heels for a dressier one. It’s also super comfortable.

Do I hack patterns often? Yes, I think I do. Because I enjoy altering a pattern’s fit or cut to flatter the person who will end up wearing the garment. I don't always change the pattern itself, but I do alter certain lengths and measurements based on who will be wearing the garment.

I’d like to sew the Honey top soon. I'm crazy about the pattern’s collar and button placket! However, I might like to make the neckline a little rounder and lengthen it a bit. I already know which fabric I'll be using. Fibre Mood’s latest issue was a treasure trove of inspiration! I've also got two Ellis jumpers in the pipeline for my two youngest. And I’d also like to find a way to share and pass on my expertise. That’s my resolution for 2021!

Fancy sewing your own Norma? Buy the pattern here!