For this version of the Arlette skirt, you will need the front, back and waistband (with or without drawstring) pattern pieces.
Follow the steps on the illustrations to alter the pattern.
Draw the specified seam allowances around the the new pattern pieces and cut these out.
Following the sewing instructions below to sew the skirt.
A/ Pin and sew the side seams of the front and back. Finish the raw edges using an overlock stitch.
B/ Gather the top of the flounce until it lines up with the bottom of the skirt. Pin and sew in place with the corresponding nicks aligned perfectly. Finish the raw edges together using an overlock stitch. Fold the hem over and sew in place.
C/ Finish the straight, vertical side at the CF using an overlock stitch. Press the shaped facing 4 cm over to the wrong side and sew or stitch in place.
D/ Pin and sew the waistband on. (for additional explanation, please see Instructions of the Arlette Skirt)
E/ Sew the snaps on.
Draw a vertical line along the edge of the CF.
Start at the dart/dart intake point and draw a vertical line up to the hem. Do this for both front and back.
Cut into the back: 1. along the line starting at the hem until just before the dart/dart intake point and 2. From the top of 1 dart leg to the dart/ dart intake point. Don’t slash all the way through the pattern; it should remain attached at the dart/dart intake point. (Slash to, not through!)
Fold the dart/dart intake closed: lay one dart leg on top of the other. There should now be an opening at the hem.
Measure the allowance of this opening (green star).
Take half the allowance of the green star and add this to the side seam. Spread out the CB seam by 3 cm. Draw the new CB seam, making sure the line is a little longer than the original length. Draw the new side seam.
Slash the front from the line at the hem up through the dart/dart intake point and then through one dart leg. You now have 2 separate pattern halves.
Place the dart/dart intake nicks together at the waistline and spread the pattern pieces underneath out, using the same allowance (green star) that you used for the back. Add half of this number to the side seam (1/2 of the green star). Retrace the side seam.
Stick the side seams of the front and back underneath the nick to each other.
Draw the hemline (based on your preference). We drew the hemline at 11 cm from the CB under the original hemline. The hem of the front starts at 51 cm under the top. Draw a flowing line (whatever feels comfortable to you) starting from the CF (on our model: 25 cm under the top) and ending at the CB. That will be the seam the flounce is attached to.
Halfway down the line of the front and halfway down the line of the back, add a reference point.
Continue drawing the top pieces and be sure to provide them with seam allowances.
Use a measuring tape to measure the distance between CB and the CB reference point, the CB reference point and the side seam, the side seam and the front reference point and the front reference point and the CF of the skirt piece and mark these on the pattern. Calculate the allowance that you would like to gather, e.g. 75% of the measured amount (what we did) or 50% of the measured amount. Write down the allowance that you would like to add to the pattern.
Continue drawing the flounce.
Always use a vertical line to draw between the marks. At the halfway point, be sure to create horizontal reference points. Always slash the pattern pieces along the vertical lines.
Spread the pattern pieces out from each other horizontally based on the number of cm you calculated in one of the previous steps. Spread the pieces out in parallel.
Retrace the top and the hem of the flounce in a flowing line.
Be sure to include the illustrated seam allowances around the pattern.